Bouldering
Just hanging out: 7 of the best bouldering spots in Australia
Swap the digital hang for an IRL hang with our top picks of the best bouldering spots Down Under. You're welcome.
Australia has some of the best sport and trad climbing in the world (we’ve rounded up a few favourite spots over here), but it’s also known for brain-twisting bouldering problems. No bolts. No ropes. Just some crash pads and highly technical crags.
This list isn’t meant to be exhaustive by any means – go and browse the 9,500 individual routes on The Crag, if you’re looking for exhausting. We’ve picked what we consider the best bouldering spots in Australia, ranging from beginner-friendly V0s to highball V11s.
Mt Arapiles | VIC
Mt Arapiles is better known for trad climbing, but there are dozens of top-shelf bouldering problems tucked into the limestone range. The best spots are arguably Watchtower Faces, (particularly Richochet Rock and Tiptoe Ridge), The Pharos boulders, and Tiger Wall, which features everything from simple V0 traverses to head-spinning, V10 overhang climbs. Mt Arapiles gets crowded during spring and summer, so remember to take things slow. Retro-bolting is discouraged, and you should brush your tick marks off, where you can.
Grampians | VIC
Bouldering in the Grampians of Australia
© Reinhard Fichtinger/Red Bull Content Pool
If you’re after pure bouldering problems, The Grampians edges out Mt Arapiles, especially in the north, where the land buckles around Mt Stapylton, Mt Zero and the aptly named, Mt Difficult. The Crag lists nearly 800 individual bouldering routes in The Grampians, mostly medium-grade sandstone problems. You could climb here for years and not cover the same route twice. Our favourite spots are Chimney Pot Gap, Red Rock, Valley of the Giants and the Buandik area. Most of the Grampians problems start around V4 or V5, so beginners might struggle to find their feet.
The Frontline | NSW
The Frontline is probably Sydney’s favourite bouldering playground. Partly that’s because North Rocks is only 30-odd minutes from the CBD, but mostly it’s because The Frontline has something for everyone. Beginners can transition from indoor plastic to temperamental sandstone without risking too much damage. Experienced climbers can tackle everything up to V11s, including the absolute classic, L’homme Obu. People have been bouldering in The Balkans since the 1970s, and there are more than 150 problems here to keep you busy.
Lindfield Rocks | NSW
There are plenty of good bouldering spots in NSW (check out Queens Park, Sissy Crag or the ever-reliable Crumbly, if you’re interested), but we’ve settled on Lindfield Rocks, because it’s where most Sydney climbers get their first taste of sandstone bouldering. Lindfield is great for beginners, with dozens of friendly, low-altitude problems. Start with First Wall, Orange Face or The Overhangs, then work your way up to the more technical climbs: Pipeline Wall and Kenny Boulder are our personal favourites.
Cataract Gorge | TAS
Tasmania is teeming with bouldering destinations (Sisters Beach, Doctors Rocks, The Blowhole and Sand River are all good places to start). But in the interests of saving time, head to Cataract Gorge, just outside Launceston. The dolerite bouldering at Cataract is some of the best in Tasmania, and easily as good as the more famous route climbs. There are four broad areas to climb: Shady Side, Sunny Side, the Basin and Duck Reach. Most problems are about 10 minutes from the nearest carpark, and you don’t even need a crash pad for some of them (particularly on Shady Side).
Magnetic Island | QLD
Queensland probably won’t appear on many bouldering bucket lists, which is a bit of a shame, because there’s some excellent climbing up here, particularly on Magnetic Island, just off the coast of Townsville. Magnetic Island is littered with thousands of granite boulders, splitters and stacks, which pretty much guarantees FAs (if you’re into that sort of thing). You can stay in the backpacker hostel and spend your days scaling beachside boulders next to towering hoop pines. The Mountain Project calls this place “Joshua Tree on a tropical island.”
