Surfing
Surfing
The Right... like you've never seen before
Totally unsurfable, this beast came alive from the depths of the ocean.
Last week one of the largest swells to roll through the Indian Ocean swept the coast of Western and South Australia, bringing the biggest waves on the coastline to life. The Right was one of those waves, and it roared out of its slumber in a big way. In fact, this could be the biggest it’s ever been captured. Let our photographer on the ground, Ren McGann, tell the story…
“So the trip to chase this swell started by heading down the night before it hit, with the forecast set for 8m and strong winds. We were pretty excited but a little nervous – everyone we spoke to said they’d never seen it in conditions like this. We camped up that night in the car park but hardly slept, as the wind was so strong and buffeting.
Scroll through the best images from what could be the biggest day ever captured at The Right, Western Australia...
That little barrel you can see in front? Yeah, that's 5-6 feet.
© Ren McGann
One of the most logic-defying shots of The Right ever captured...
© Ren McGann
The widest barrel in the world...
© Ren McGann
One that drained so hard the wave was far below sea level
© Ren McGann
“When we woke up it seemed like the wind had backed out so we were pretty pumped up. We chucked the ski in the water and waited for Ben Rufus to arrive so we could head out together.
“The winds seemed pretty light on the inlet but when we got out into the ocean it was kind of the opposite. Super raw ocean, massive swell lines, huge chop… it was a bumpy ride out.
“Once we arrived, I pulled out my camera and tried to settle in to start shooting, which usually takes me a little while out at The Right – you’ve got to take your time and get a feel for the ocean and the wave. During those few minutes of silence it really hit me how big it was.
“It’s really hard to gauge size at The Right when no one is surfing. We were trying to figure out how big it was when a few sets rolled through – we saw the reef go dry on a few of them we had to laugh. I mean, holy shit it was solid. It was completely unsurfable.
“We stayed out for a few hours just taking it all in, trying to dodge sets. The swell was so big it was breaking out past where the boys usually sit to tow in, and the wind started to get stronger and stronger.
“It was amazing to see it at that size but don't think ill be heading out in those types of conditions again – it was super sketchy and the potential for things to go south, quickly, is pretty high. You put a lot of faith in your ski and your friends when it’s like that.”
01
History of The Right
The discovery of The Right wave is credited to two surfers, Justin 'Jughead' Allport and Ryan 'Hippo' Hipwood. In 2007, the pair set out to explore the coastline in Western Australia for new surf breaks, and stumbled upon The Right wave. They quickly realized the potential of the wave, and began to share their discovery with other surfers.
The Right is a notorious big wave surfing spot located off the southern coast of Western Australia. It is widely considered one of the most dangerous and challenging waves in the world, due to its heavy, shallow, and unpredictable nature. The wave breaks over a shallow reef, creating a large, hollow tube that can reach up to 20 feet (6 meters) in height. The wave's power and speed make it difficult to surf, and only the most skilled and experienced surfers attempt to ride it. The remote location and treacherous conditions also add to the danger of The Right, making it a highly sought-after challenge for thrill-seeking surfers.
Despite the risk, many surfers continue to make the journey to this remote corner of Western Australia in search of the ultimate big wave experience. In recent years, The Right has become a popular subject for surf films and documentaries, showcasing the incredible skill and bravery of the surfers who dare to ride this monster wave.
02
Mechanics of The Right
The Right is a notoriously powerful and dangerous wave located off the southern coast of Western Australia. The wave is created by a unique set of underwater rock formations that funnel and focus the incoming swell, resulting in a steep and incredibly fast wave that breaks over shallow reefs. The mechanics of the wave require a large and perfectly timed swell, as well as precise positioning by the surfer to catch the wave at the right moment.
The wave's steep drop and barrel section make it a favorite among experienced and adventurous surfers looking for a challenge. However, the wave's shallow reef and close proximity to jagged rocks mean that it can be extremely dangerous, with many surfers suffering serious injuries or even death from wipeouts. As a result, The Right is often referred to as one of the most dangerous waves in the world.
03
Who surfed The Right?
Many notable surfers have attempted to surf this wave, including big wave surfers such as Ross Clarke-Jones, Tom Carroll, and Mick Fanning.
In 2017, Brazilian surfer Rodrigo Koxa successfully surfed what was believed to be the largest wave ever ridden, a 80-foot wave, at Nazaré, Portugal. However, Koxa has also expressed his desire to surf The Right wave and test his skills against its massive size and power. Other notable surfers who have attempted to surf The Right include Shane Dorian, Mark Mathews, and Danny Griffiths, among others.
Some female surfers who have surfed the Right wave in Western Australia include Felicity Palmateer, Laura Enever, and Keala Kennelly. Palmateer, an Australian surfer, surfed the Right in 2015 and became the first woman to surf the wave without the aid of a tow-in. Enever, also an Australian surfer, surfed the Right in 2017 and was the second woman to surf the wave without a tow-in. Kennelly, an American surfer, surfed the Right in 2017 as well and became the third woman to surf the wave without the assistance of a tow-in.
04
Exact location of The Right
The exact location of The Right wave is a closely guarded secret known only to a select group of surfers and locals in Western Australia. It is rumored to be somewhere along the coast between Walpole and Denmark, but the exact location is not publicized to protect the wave and the surrounding environment. Access to the area is also restricted, and those who do venture out to surf The Right must be experienced and prepared for the powerful and dangerous conditions.
Fan of big wave surfing? Red Bull TV is the place for you. The Eddie, live action from the WSL, and the latest episodes of 'The Life Of Kai' are just a handful of surfing videos streaming right now.
3 min
Surfing The Right
A group of chargers take on Western Australia's infamous slab, The Right, in full rage mode.
