Surfing
Surfing
All the styles, superstars and sacred rules of surfing you need to know
From the unique terminology, to the athletes taking the sport forward, discover all you need to know about the world of surfing.
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01
Surfing: the short version
Put simply, surfing is the act of riding a wave standing up on a surfboard. Using surfboards of varying lengths and construction – from fibreglass 'shortboards' that are less than 5ft [1.5m] long to hard foam 'longboards' that are 10ft [3m] and above. A surfer catches a wave just as it’s cresting, riding along the wave’s 'face' as it breaks toward the beach. Once upon a time, surfing was done only in oceans, but now the sport is practised in other bodies of water, like the US Great Lakes, the Mediterranean Sea, and, as many are hoping is the case in Tokyo, in artificial wave pools.
02
The origin story – the history of surfing
Surfing has been dubbed 'the sport of kings,' thanks to its origins on the Hawaiian islands, where it was practised as a recreational activity by the islands’ royalty and commoners alike. Historical research has found that other Pacific cultures – from Fiji to Peru – also surfed for fun on various crafts. But it was in Hawaii, in the early 20th Century, where surfing first sparked the global phenomenon that the sport became in the following decades. Visiting surfers from the US mainland and Australia took the sport home with them. In the US state of California and the Australian state of Victoria, surfers transformed the sport into a global, multibillion-dollar apparel industry. In 1976, a world surfing tour was formed – its most current iteration is the World Surf League. The sport’s governing body is the International Surfing Association, which today represents some 55 nations from around the world.
03
What are we watching, exactly? How does surfing work?
This depends if you’re watching 'freesurfing' or competition surfing, shortboarding, longboarding, or tow surfing. Here’s the breakdown:
Freesurfing
This just means surfing outside of competition. It may look like there are no rules of engagement when you look out into the waves at a crowd of freesurfers, however, the truth is there are many codes of conduct at work. The most sacred rule is the surfer who's closest to the crest of the breaking wave and who's on his or her feet first, has the right of way. And once that surfer is up and riding, all other surfers are responsible for staying out of their way. Oh, and if you’re out there and someone catches a really good one, it’s cool to give them a 'hoot' to let them know of their impressive ride.
Competition surfing
Competition rules vary slightly between organisations, but all surf contests consist of divisions, broken down by age and gender, and timed heats in which between two and four surfers compete against each other, the winner being the surfer whose best two combined wave scores advances to the next round.
Shortboarding
As mentioned above, shortboards are generally 6ft [1.8m] or under. They're the most popular type of surfboard in the sport today. When surfing a shortboard, a multitude of fast, quick manoeuvres is the goal.
Longboarding
Since longboards were the first type of surfboard, they're considered the sport’s 'classic' choice. Longboarding is all about style – smooth, relaxed control of the board as you move along the face of a wave is the goal.
Tow surfing
This is the sport’s most recent addition and it’s reserved for only the best and bravest surfers in the world. In the early 2000s, surfers in Maui, Hawaii – led by Laird Hamilton – wanted to start riding waves that were above 50ft [15m] in height. The problem was that, more often than not, those waves move so fast that it's extremely difficult to catch them by paddling alone. Hamilton and his crew discovered that by using a waterski rope and an engine-powered zodiac, they could meet the giant waves’ speeds. They added straps to small, heavy shortboards that could absorb the shock of 50ft-plus waves and eventually switched over to using jet skis to tow each other. Today, tow surfing has evolved into a highly technical discipline that has allowed surfers to ride waves that previous generations only dreamed of riding.
Freesurfing is exactly what it sounds like – just getting out there
© Anthony Fox/Red Bull Content Pool
Paddling out with friends to catch waves is what freesurfing is all about
© Ryan Miller/Red Bull Content Pool
Freesurfing also covers the burly world of big wave surfing
© Fred Pompermayer/Red Bull Content Pool
Competition surfing is all about out-scoring your rivals with big moves
© Jason Halayko/Red Bull Content Pool
04
I want a go. What kit do I need for surfing?
Not much, to be honest. All you really need is a bathing suit, some surf wax, a board and a 'leg rope' to keep you connected to your board. These days, most popular surfing beaches have surf schools, where instructors can give you a few lessons, or nearby surf shops where you can rent a board and have a go at it on your own. Just remember the sacred rule mentioned above!
05
The tricktionary – what are surfing’s key tricks and techniques?
Here are the manoeuvres you’re going to want to understand inside-out:
The barrel
This is surfing’s most prized manoeuvre – and one of its most difficult. A barrel forms as a wave’s crest pitches forward and over, forming a hollow chamber within the wave. The bigger the wave and more shallow the bottom, the larger the barrel becomes. It's extremely difficult to acquire the timing, balance and spatial awareness to duck into a barrel and emerge. But practice makes perfect!
The bottom turn
This is surfing’s most fundamental manoeuvre. A bottom turn happens after a surfer has stood up and dropped down the face of the wave. Once at the trough, or bottom, of the wave, the surfer then pivots their momentum toward the open face of the wave. The speed of the drop is then transferred forward, propelling the surfer along the wave. Think of the bottom turn as the surfer’s gas pedal.
The top turn
If you’re on a shortboard, the top turn is the next most fundamental manoeuvre after the bottom turn. As you’re riding along a wave, its crest, or 'lip,' seems to just be hanging there, taunting you to 'hit' it. So that’s what you should do! A good surfer will generate extra speed by dipping back down to the wave’s trough and engaging another bottom turn, which will then propel them vertically up the face of the wave. Once their board has made contact with the counterforce of the wave’s crest, the surfer will then redirect downward and back onto the wave’s open face. A solid connection with the lip will generate a huge spray of water – and trust us, there’s no better feeling than crushing a big top turn and showering your nearby friends with the spray.
The floater
Once a strictly functional manoeuvre, the floater has become an element of style in the surfer’s repertoire. Not all waves break along the beach perfectly, so when a surfer encounters a breaking section of the wave that's too long to bottom turn around, they must use their speed to ride up, onto and across the crest, or lip, reaching the other side of the breaking section. A well-executed floater can take on the appearance of anti-gravity, as the surfer is both perched on and moving across a breaking wave.
The air
It wasn’t until the 1990s that surfers, confronted with sections of waves where once only a floater would be considered the logical next step, decided instead to channel their inner skateboarder or snowboarder and launch off the wave. The air began as a humble ollie off the lip. It soon evolved into an 'air reverse,' or 360 off the lip. Today, the amount of variations done by the world’s best surfers is dizzying, from inverted 540s to alley-oops to back-flips.
06
Names to watch out for
Kai Lenny is known for charging some for the biggest waves on the planet
© Mike Coots/Red Bull Content Pool
Hall of fame queen Carissa Moore is a five-time world champ
© Ben Thouard/Red Bull Content Pool
Caroline Marks is the youngest woman to compete in the World Surf League
© David Clancy/Red Bull Content Pool
Kanoa Igarashi is putting Japan on top of the surfing world
© Jason Halayko/Red Bull Content Pool
- Kai Lenny – the next-gen Laird Hamilton. Over the last two years, he's shocked the surfing world by riding some of the biggest waves on earth as if they were 5-footers, doing 360s and other airs on walls of water seven or eight storeys high.
- Carissa Moore – The four-time world champion has pushed women’s surfing to new heights over the last decade. Combining power with style, Moore is one of the best surfers in the history of the sport, male or female.
- Caroline Marks – In 2018, at age 16, Marks became the youngest surfer to ever qualify for the Women’s World Surf League championship tour. She went on to win Rookie of the Year that season and, in 2019, took one of the two spots for women at the upcoming Tokyo event.
- Kanoa Igarashi – Igarashi is by far Japan’s most successful professional surfer. He is a consistent force on the World Surf League championship tour, where he won the 2019 Corona Bali Protected Pro.
- Jordy Smith – With multiple World Surf League championship tour wins under his belt, this South African possesses the rare combination of power and finesse when it comes to high-performance surfing. Whether the waves are 2ft or 10, Smith is always one to watch.
- Mick Fanning – The three-time world champion rose to fame as 'White Lightning,' for his mop of blonde hair and ability to seemingly go faster than anyone else on a wave. Now retired, Fanning has set his sights on obscure destinations where the surfing potential is promising.
- Lucas 'Chumbo' Chianca – Chumbo is a close second in line to Kai Lenny when it comes to surfing some of the biggest waves in the world. He's smooth and sturdy on his feet, yet has the ability to pull mind-blowing aerial manoeuvres on waves that, not long ago, people believed could not be surfed in such a way.
- Eli Hanneman – Hawaii’s young star is absolutely unbelievable when it comes to airs. Hanneman's already turning heads and will be sooner than later on the world stage.
- Molly Picklum – The up-and-coming Australian competitor is not only lethal in small waves, but she’s getting better and better in bigger surf, too.
- Kolohe Andino – Like Julian Wilson, Andino has been in the surfing spotlight since he was a tiny toehead being pushed into the waves of his California homebreak by his dad and former world tour surfer, Dino.
- Teresa Bonvalot – With her polished, smooth style and incredible technical skills, she is recognised as one of the best Portuguese surfers of all time. Her hard work pays off and she earns a spot in Tokyo. Her goal: to become the female version of Kenny Slater.
- Michel Bourez - Also known as the “Spartan”, marked his 14th year on the Championship Tour by clinching the 13th position globally, ensuring his spot representing France at the Tokyo Olympic Games.
- Carlos Burle - Celebrated for his daredevil performances at famous big wave destinations such as Mavericks, Jaws and Nazaré, Carlos Burle continues to push the boundaries of what is possible in surfing. In October 2013, he made headlines when he rode what is believed to be one of the biggest waves of all time at Praia do Norte in Nazaré, Portugal, measuring over 100 feet.
- Kehu Butler - From excelling in junior competitions to competing on the international stage, Butler demonstrates both ambition and adaptability, thriving in a variety of surfing conditions.
- João Vitor Chianca - João kicked off the 2023 WSL Championship Tour with impressive performances, reaching the semi-finals of the first two events in Hawaii. He followed that up with his first tour win at the MEO Rip Curl Pro Portugal, which propelled him to the top of the world rankings.
- Griffin Colapinto - Making a name for himself in both junior and professional events. He has competed in a number of prestigious events, including the World Surf League (WSL) Championship Tour.
- Andrew Cotton - He has gained international acclaim for his fearless approach to riding massive waves. His breakthrough came in 2013 when he conquered a colossal wave in Nazaré, Portugal, estimated to be over 80ft high. Despite a broken back from a wipeout in Nazaré in 2017, Cotton continues to pursue big waves.
- Laura Coviella - She is constantly challenging herself by tackling heavier waves. Currently, Laura Coviella has her sights set on conquering every XXL winter swell at Nazaré in Portugal, with aspirations to eventually test her skills at California's Maverick's and Hawaii's Jaws.
- Justine Dupont - Arguably the world's best all-round female big wave surfer, Justine Dupont dominates from Belharra to Nazaré, Jaws to Mavericks. Her potential world record rides at Nazaré have been widely recognised, earning her nominations and wins at the WSL Big Wave Awards.
- Jarvis Earle - Jarvis Earle has won prestigious events such as the Australian Junior Championships, the Australian Open of Surfing, Skull Candy's Oz Grom Open and numerous Grom Comps. Securing a scholarship at the Australian Institute of Sport's High-Performance Centre for Surfing further highlights his potential.
- Italo Ferreira - In 2021, he shone on the biggest sporting stage of all, winning gold in Tokyo as surfing made its Olympic debut. Italo Ferreira, the Brazilian dynamo of professional surfing, has risen to the top of the sport with his dynamic and progressive style.
- Lucas Fink - He has made waves as a world champion skimboarder. The first non-American to conquer the United Skim Tour, Fink's daring big wave exploits have elevated the sport to an unprecedented level, showcasing his fearless approach to tackling bigger waves.
- Leonardo Fioravanti - As Italy's first surfer on the World Surf League (WSL) Championship Tour, Fioravanti has made a significant impact, showcasing his talent against the world's best surfers. His journey through the ranks of the WSL Qualifying Series and onto the Championship Tour has been marked by impressive performances and key wins.
- Leon Glatzer - Born in Hawaii but raised in the rich surfing culture of Costa Rica, he has carved out a unique place for himself in the world of competitive surfing while representing Germany. He has made waves on the international stage, including a memorable appearance at the 2020 Tokyo Olympics, where surfing made its debut.
- Izzi Gomez - At a remarkably young age, she has already etched her name into the annals of watersports history by winning multiple titles on the Stand Up Paddle (SUP) World Tour. Not content with reigning over calm waters alone, she has boldly moved into the electrifying realm of big wave surfing.
- Natxo Gonzales - Hailing from the Basque Country in Spain, Gonzalez has built a reputation for bold and graceful conquests of colossal waves that have earned him worldwide recognition.
- Ben Larg - At just 14 years old, Ben Larg made history as the youngest surfer to conquer a 30ft wave at Mullaghmore, one of Ireland's most impressive big wave spots.
- Conor Maguire - From the rugged shores of County Sligo, he has built a reputation for fearlessly tackling colossal waves in extreme conditions. He's known for charging some of Ireland's biggest waves, particularly at Mullaghmore Head.
- Sanoa Olin - Canadian cold water surfing royalty has a new face in Sanoa Olin, a rising star whose early victories have established her as a formidable competitor and a beacon for the next generation.
- Jack Robinson - His recent surfing achievements include qualifying for the Rip Curl WSL Finals at Lower Trestles in California, finishing fifth in the world in 2023, and taking first place in Oahu in 2024.
- Caitlin Simmers - The 2023 WSL Rookie of the Year, kicked off her 2024 season with a spectacular win at the Pipe Pro. Her rise to the top of the surfing world continues, marked by skilful victories and a promising path ahead.
- Jordy Smith - He finished third at the Hurley Pro Sunset Beach 2024, adding another impressive result to his illustrious surfing career. Jordy Smith's performance at Sunset Beach is a testament to his status as a premier competitor on the global stage.
- Kauli Vaast - A three-time WSL European Junior Champion with titles in 2017, 2019 and 2020, has seamlessly transitioned into the WSL Challenger Series. His skills and consistency in the water have earned him a spot on the French Olympic Surfing Team.
- Pedro Vianna - "Scooby" Vianna's mastery of all wave sizes and his charismatic influence on Brazil's youth have earned him respect and icon status in the surfing world.
- Gabriel Villaran - He is renowned for his outstanding barrel riding and his adventurous spirit, highlighted by his journey to surf the Vilcanota river wave in the Andes. His approach to surfing transcends competition, blending skill with a quest for unique experiences.
- Ian Walsh - Known for his big wave prowess, Ian Walsh also excels in freestyle and foil surfing, demonstrating versatility and innovation on the water. His achievements in these disciplines confirm his status as a multi-faceted surfing icon.
- Adriano de Souza - Adriano de Souza, a Brazilian powerhouse in the surfing world, has etched his name into the history books with the 2015 WSL World Championship title, a testament to his relentless work ethic and competitive drive.
07
Where can I see more?
Films
Before there was a dedicated pro surfing world tour, there was a travelling cadre of surfers beaming their exploits to surf fans via film. Does The Endless Summer ring a bell? It has been surf films that have often been the biggest drivers of style and technical advancement in surfing – and that's still the case today, even with the huge amount of content available on the internet and on social media. Watch some of our favourite modern surf films.
Events
- Pipe Masters: Professional surfing's most iconic event, held at the Banzai Pipeline on the North Shore of Oahu, Hawaii. One of the most dangerous and challenging waves in the world, each year since the 1970s, Pipeline reveals those pros with the most guts, grit and talent.
- WSL Finals, Lower Trestles, California, USA: Southern California's 'Lowers' is considered one of the world's most high-performance waves. After a reshuffling of its annual world tour schedule, the World Surf League will now hold its final event of the season at Lowers, where the men's and women's World Titles will be decided in a single-day event at this world-renowned break.
- Surf Ranch Pro, Lemoore, California, USA: Not far from Lowers – but very far from the ocean – is the ranch town of Lemoore, California, home to Kelly Slater's groundbreaking wave pool. The Surf Ranch Pro is the World Surf League's only men's and women's tour stop at an artificial wave.
- Nazaré Tow Surfing Challenge, Nazaré, Portugal: Home to the world's biggest waves, Nazaré has in recent years also played host to some of the most exciting big wave surfing events ever witnessed. This all-tow event brings together the world's bravest surfers for one day of 50ft-plus surfing.
- Triple Crown of Surfing: In addition to the Pipe Masters, the North Shore of Oahu, Hawaii, also hosts two other iconic pro surfing events at nearby Haleiwa and Sunset Beach. Together, this trio of events makes up the prestigious Triple Crown of Surfing. Winning the Triple Crown is one of the most coveted honours in pro surfing.
- Jaws Big Wave Championships: Alongside Nazaré in terms of the world's biggest wave is Maui, Hawaii's Pe'ahi, better known as Jaws. While the Nazaré event is all tow surfing, the Jaws event is all paddle, featuring the world's best male and female big wave surfers. Few pro surfing events are as thrilling to watch as the Jaws Championships.
- Red Bull Cape Fear: Always the wildcard, and always a fan favourite, the Red Bull Cape Fear is pro surfing's only big wave slab event. From Sydney to Tasmania, Cape Fear has featured some of the craziest competition in pro surfing.
- International Surfing Association World Surfing Games: While winning a World Surf League tour event is the highest individual honour, winning alongside your countrymen and women at the ISA World Surfing Games is the highest honour in teams surfing. Held each year at locations around the world, the ISA World Surfing Games feature teams from over 100 countries around the planet.
Dive in to Red Bull Cape Fear
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