Kenton Cool is one of Britain’s most celebrated mountaineers, having climbed all of the world’s highest peaks. Not only has he broken the record for becoming the first man to conquer neighbouring peaks Everest, Nuptse and Lhotse in a single push, he has also reached the summit of Everest 12 times – more than any other Briton.
So he knows exactly what you need to take if you’re going to attempt to climb to its 8,848m summit. He says: “On summit day, I have almost nothing in my bag. You don’t want to waste energy by overloading yourself. But the kit you wear is specialised – and crucial in determining your success in making it to the top.”
Here’s Kenton’s guide to what you need to reach the summit of Earth’s highest mountain.
1. A thermal one-piece
I wear a one-piece thermal so there are no cold spots around the midriff or issues with the garments riding up. I like the brand Icebreaker – they make thermals from organic merino wool that wicks moisture and is warm.
2. A brand new pair of socks
My socks come out of the wrapper on summit day. Your extremities – particularly your fingers and toes – suffer most at altitude. New socks that have never been worn give you the best opportunity to keep your toes warm – and this could be the difference between you losing them to frostbite.
3. Power stretch
I use Polartec Power Stretch on my legs – it’s a thin (2mm thick) additional layer, that’s essentially like wearing a pair of tights.
4. Fleece
A fleece is essential. There doesn’t have to be anything special about it, but you’ll be grateful for the extra layer when you make it to the summit, where temperatures average around -36C.
5. Expedition suit
Imagine a sleeping bag with arms and legs, the thicker the better. Filled with goose down, it keeps the penetrating cold out. You can pick one up off a shelf for around £800-900 (The North Face does a good one), or you can pay extra for a bespoke suit. This will cost at least £200 more and will take around eight weeks to arrive, but it will be cut to you like a suit, which is good because it’s essential that it fits well. Wearing a down suit makes you look like the Michelin Man – but it’s the single most important garment for summiting Everest.
6. Boots
You need a massive pair of boots to climb Everest. They are a bit like ski boots in that they have an outer and an inner layer. I use La Sportiva Olympus Mons – they look like astronaut boots but have a good warmth to weight ratio (warm and durable without being too heavy) and are easy to put on with gloves. They cost around £600, but will last you five or six Everest expeditions.
7. Mitts
I use Black Diamond’s down-filled mitts. I don’t use their biggest ones because they are less manoeuvrable, but their second biggest pair is thick enough.
8. Disposable hand warmers
These are the cheapest part of your kit (they only cost a couple of quid each) but they are so great to pop inside a glove or a coat during a rest.
9. Balaclava
You’ll need to wear this, along with a woolly hat, most of the time.
10. Ice equipment
For Everest’s snow and icy conditions, you’ll need crampons for your feet, an ice axe and a harness. I use Black Diamond kit as it’s super lightweight.
11. Head torch
An essential, because the climb to the summit begins in the middle of the night.
12. A light, but well-stocked rucksack
You don’t want this to be too heavy, particularly on summit day, but it contains everything you need for the day, from food to oxygen (I’ll also have a spare pair of mitts in my bag). I carry one litre of water or a flask of hot liquid (one litre is not really enough, but it’s a tradeoff between hydration and weight). I also carry food – something that’s not going to freeze like an energy gel, some dried fruit or cheese. People often lose their appetite at altitude – I lose my appetite for chocolate but crave savoury things, so I normally carry Pringles, too.
I’ll also have a couple of four kilogram oxygen cylinders [Everest is so high that the majority of climbers need to wear oxygen masks as they near the summit]. I also carry a super light first aid kit containing high altitude drugs (such as dexamethasone), tramadol (an opium-based pain killer) and medical tape.
There’s also a camera in there.
13. Radio
This is vital to communicate with Base Camp about everything from the weather to how the climb is going.
14. And last but not least…
I always carry Stripey Mouse, my mascot. He’s a toy from my childhood and comes on all my expeditions.