Walking (Sports)
10 of the best ridge walks in Scotland
Looking for a hands-on experience with thrilling exposure and views to die for? Then look no further.
Scotland is home to the biggest and baddest mountains in the UK. And there’s no more exhilarating way to experience them than to test your skill, balance and confidence moving over their soaring technical ridges. Rock climber and skyrunning guide Keri Wallace reveals her top 10 ridge scrambles in the Scottish Highlands.
Word of caution: In light of the coronavirus pandemic, Mountaineering Scotland advise that individuals take a sensible approach to their activities, use their judgement to manage the risks, and consider the social responsibility we all have to each other, to protecting our emergency services and to minimise the transmission of COVID-19. Find more guidance from Mountaineering Scotland here on hill walking and climbing safely during this time.
1. Aonach Eagach, Glencoe
Aonach Eagach in Scotland is 9.5km long, with 1,100m of ascent
© Keri Wallace
The Aonach Eagach is arguably the most famous scramble in Scotland. Its narrow crenelated ridge links two Munros and is a grade 2 undertaking, which is not to be underestimated. The ridge requires commitment, without much in the way of escape options. For many the crux is a down-climb, just after the summit of Am Bodach. But for those who struggle with exposure, the crux may come later, over the Pinnacles instead. Be aware that the difficulties do not end until the col below Stob Coire Leith.
Safety: The safest way to retire from the Aonach Eagach is to go on, or go back! Never try to bail down to the road half-way along. Also be aware that the rock on this popular ridge is quite polished (slippery) in places.
Aonach Eagach has the narrowest ridge on the British mainland
© Keri Wallace
Distance and elevation: The ridge is usually completed from an East to West direction, and is 9.5km long, with 1,100m of ascent.
Start and finish: Start at a layby 300m west of Allt-na-ruigh (Start Grid Ref: NN173567). To descend, ignore the path on the west side of Clachaig Gully (it is steep, loose and consequential). Instead, head towards the Pap of Glencoe and join the more major path further down (this brings you down to the ‘back road’ running parallel with the A82).
More info: The ONLY way to finish the Aonach Eagach is with a beverage in the famous Clachaig Inn!
2. Liathach Traverse, Torridon
If you think the rising flank of Liathach looks impressive and imposing from the road in Torridon, then you’re going to LOVE the view from high on the ridge itself! The majestic Liathach Traverse is a challenging grade 2 scrambling adventure and one of the most prized ridge routes in Scotland.
Safety: The crux of this ridge is the infamous Am Fasarinen pinnacles. For those who enjoy a bit of exposure, this section gives some superb, airy grade scrambling but most of it can be avoided via a well-used (albeit exposed) path on the south side. This is a long and intense day out, so the weather and fitness of the party should be carefully considered before starting out.
Start and finish: The start (Start Grid Ref: NG935566) is a carpark a couple of hundred metres east of Glen Cottage, from which the Coire Dubh Mor path is signposted. At the end, the hill path joins Torridon road, two kilometres west of the start (necessitating a road walk, shuttle or hitch back to the car!).
Distance and elevation: 11.5km round-trip with 1,326m of ascent.
More info: walkhighlands.co.uk/torridon/Liathach.shtml
3. Carn Mor Dearg (CMD) Arête, Lochaber
The Carn Mor Dearg Arête is a fantastic introduction to scrambling and the best way of extending a visit to the summit of the UK’s highest mountain, Ben Nevis. At grade 1, there are few technical difficulties but the rewards are many, with priceless views into the intimidating North Face of 'The Ben'. The route links the summit of Ben Nevis with neighbouring Munro Carn Mor Dearg. From here walkers should continue NW over Carn Dearg Meadhonach, then towards Carn Beag Dearg, before dropping NW to join the main path from the CIC hut to the North Face carpark.
Safety: The ‘crux’ of the day is likely to be finding the right line off of the summit of Ben Nevis. In poor visibility this should be done with a compass bearing, and great care should be taken (the North Face of Ben Nevis is extremely precipitous).
Start and finish: The summit of Ben Nevis is usually accessed via the tourist route starting at the Ben Nevis Visitor Centre. Descending via the CMD Arête necessitates a car-shuttle from the North Face car park back to the start.
Distance and elevation: This route is approximately 18km, with 1,550m of ascent over the day.
More info: The route can be made into a classic circuit by ascending Ben Nevis via Ledge Route (also grade 1 but more taxing). The Ledge Route/CMD Arête combination starts and finishes at the North Face carpark. For more information, visit www.smc.org.uk/publications/scrambling/highlands-south.
4. An Teallach, Ross and Cromarty
The ridge is a natural masterpiece of rock tiers and sculpted sandstone pinnacles that are a pleasure to climb whatever the weather. The An Teallach traverse is a magnificent adventure with exciting scrambling linking two munros. The path from the road up onto the ridge of Meall Garbh feels a bit arduous and is boggy in places, but it is worth the effort. The views from the summits of Bidein a'Ghlas Thuill and Sgurr Fiona are truly spectacular. Many of the technicalities lie on the very crest of the ridge and can be missed out, but to do the route properly is a solid grade 3 scramble.
Safety: The Corrag Buidhe pinnacles end suddenly in a big drop (Corrag Buidhe buttress). Descending this is a graded rock climb and an accident black-spot. Turn back a little way and seek out a path on the right-hand side of the ridge, which avoids this section.
Start and finish: Parking is in a layby on A832, approx. 250m to the east of the Dundonnell Hotel (Start Grid Ref: NH093879). From here, head along the road away from the hotel and start up the hill via a path, just before a pair of bungalows. After descending from Sail Liath, pick up the stalkers' path leading to Corrie Hallie, where it joins the A832. This leaves a 3km walk/hitch back up the road to your car.
Distance and elevation: A 19km journey with 1,348m of height gain.
More info: Make sure you check out the intimidating position of Lord Berkeley's Seat, a terrifying pinnacle which overhangs Coire Toll an Lochain. For more information, visit walkhighlands.co.uk/ullapool/anteallach.shtml
5. Stac Pollaidh, Assynt
The ridge of Stac Pollaidh is the ultimate short-but-sweet scramble. Its main attraction lies in the unforgettable views it affords over Assynt, the Summer Isles and Achiltibuie. The view towards Suilven is arguably the best vista in Scotland; a panorama of remote lochs, lonely mountains and sparkling ocean. Grade 2 scrambling terrain lies between where the main path meets the ridge (at its lowest point) and the true summit, at the west end of the ridge. After summiting, carefully reverse your steps back to the central saddle and descend to re-join the circuit trail (continue the circuit anticlockwise, back to the start).
Safety: The ridge section involves a succession of tricky sandstone towers which culminate in a short but steep crux above a big drop, where extra care should be taken.
Start and finish: At the car park (Start Grid Ref: NC107095), immediately adjacent to the major circuit trail.
Distance and elevation: A swift 4.5km with only 510m ascent.
6. Curved Ridge, Glencoe
Curved Ridge in Scotland is a Grade 3 scrambling route
© Keri Wallace
Curved Ridge is the classic scramble on Buachaille Etive Mor, one of the most iconic mountains in Scotland. The route is hard for the grade (grade 3) and travels through steep, rugged terrain to Buachaille's northern Munro summit, Stob Dearg, with Rannoch Moor spreading out below. There is one very steep section near the top where a few obligatory rocky steps have to be climbed (which is why this route is sometimes described as involving 'moderate' rock climbing). Once on the ridge, route finding is straightforward. To reach the summit, head up and right into Crowberry Tower Gap (the rock is loose here, so take care), then through a notch up to the summit, and return to the car via Coire na Tullaidh.
Safety: The biggest mistake made on curved ridge is not getting on to it in the first place! There are many trails in the scree on the way up to the foot of the route, and the ridge is not easy to spot (being overshadowed by Crowberry Ridge to its right). Many parties end up on the harder D Gully Buttress to the left. It is relatively easy to spot the pink Rannoch Wall above and right, which can be helpful for orienting your approach in the lower reaches.
Climbers on Curved Ridge need to tread carefully on the rugged terrain
© Keri Wallace
Start and finish: Park in the busy layby at Altnafeadh (Start Grid Ref: NN221563).
Distance and elevation: A 7km loop with only 800m of ascent.
More info: Glencoe is arguably the home of Scottish scrambling; with such a concentration of fabulous routes in a small area. Visit smc.org.uk/publications/scrambling/highlands-south to find out about the others.
7. Fiacaill Ridge, Cairngorms
If you’re looking for a quick scrambling hit with good accessibility, then this is the route for you. It is accessed from the ski centre and starts with 600m of elevation (what’s not to love?). Fiacaill Ridge is a blocky granite ridge which separates Coire an t-Sneachda and Coire an Lochain, and finishes with a satisfying exposed crest. The ridge will pass at either grade 1 or 2 depending on the line you take. It tops out on the plateau, from where you can descend west (over Cairn Lochan) or east via the 1141 spot height, which is marked by a large cairn. Either way, great trails bring you back to the car park.
Safety: Although this route is accessible and relatively short, conditions on the Cairngorm plateau can become dangerous very quickly in poor weather. Make sure you wear enough layers and carry a map and compass, even though it might feel that you’re not far from civilisation!
Start and finish: Cairngorm Ski Centre carpark (Start Grid Ref: NH989059).
Distance and elevation: The route is only 4.5km to the summit plateau and 9-10km in total, depending on the route option you take), with a total height gain of approx. 700m.
More info: If you’re looking for a bigger day out, then Fiacaill Ridge is a great way to access the other Munros and scenic lochs around the Cairngorm plateau. For more information, visit smc.org.uk/publications/scrambling/highlands-south
8. Suilven Traverse, Sutherland
Suilven is a striking and unusually shaped mountain that rears up out of a vast wilderness of lochans and sparse mountains. The view from the ridge is out of this world and makes for an adventure you’ll never forget! The ridge can be accessed by several trails: from Inverkirkaig, the route is a bit longer and more scenic (via the Falls of Kirkaig and Fionn Loch) but is rougher underfoot; while the trail from Lochinver past Suileag bothy has recently been repaired and is now an excellent clear path all the way to the col. The ridge can also be climbed from Elphin in the east.
Between Bealach Mor and the summits of Meall Meadhonach and Meall Beag, the ridge is grade 3 scrambling terrain. This route is usually an out-and-back from the col, and is not for those with vertigo. However, the true summit, Caisteal Liath (west of the col), can be reached without any scrambling.
Safety: Suilven is extremely remote and the surrounding landscape is vast and complex. Make sure you have the usual clothing, layers and navigation apparatus with you for a safe journey through the mountains.
Distance and elevation: 24km to and from Inverkirkaig, and 1200m of ascent.
Start and finish: Falls of Kirkaig car park, Lochinver (donation for parking before Glencanisp Lodge) or Elphin (roadside parking).
More info: Rather unusually, Suilven is a community-owned mountain, in partnership with the John Muir Trust.
9. Dubh Slabs, Isle of Skye
The Dubh Slabs lie in one of the most picturesque settings you can imagine – above the shores of the remote Loch Coruisk, surrounded by a backdrop of the menacing Black Cuillin. These immaculate slabs can be ascended at moderate grade to access the top Sgurr Dubh Beag rock peak, en route to the summit of Sgurr Dubh Mor.
Safety: The hardest part of the main slabs is getting established in the bottom sections, although for many the crux of the day lies with a scary free-hanging abseil from the summit of Sgurr Dubh Beag, in addition to some tricky grade 3 sections approaching the main Munro summit. Great care is also needed while descending via Sgurr Dubh an Da Bheinn to Caisteal a' Garbh-Choire.
Distance and elevation: 11km and 1,350m ascent
Equipment: Rope and ‘tat’ as required for a 25m abseil
Start and finish: The slabs lie on the south side of Loch Coruisk, approx. 1.5km from the jetty (Start Grid Ref: NG 48702 19660). The descent re-joins the Lochside trail just east of here.
More info: Loch Coruisk can be accessed on foot by way of a 22km round trip from Elgol, via a rocky coastal path. Alternatively, buy a return ticket on the Bella Jane which sails from Elgol harbour. For route information purchase Skye Scrambles.
10. Cuillin Ridge Traverse, Isle of Skye
This is where it’s at. The Cuillin Ridge Traverse ticks 11 Munro summits in an epic 12km Alpine-style challenge (with 4,000m ascent), which defeats many a suitor. The terrain includes one-to-two days of sustained grade 3+ scrambling/climbing, as well as three (avoidable) severe grade climbing pitches. The skin-shredding character of the grippy Gabbro (which will make your fingertips cry), is easily offset by superb views over summits and sea. The exposure and truly technical scrambling are certainly not for the faint-hearted. A great deal of fitness, rope-skill and mountain knowledge is needed for a successful traverse, including experience in advanced navigation, lead rock climbing, retrievable abseils and (unless you're really quick) wild camping/bivvying. Favourable weather is also a must.
Safety: The sheer size, complexity and technicality of this ridge (alongside a notorious shortage of water) make this the most challenging and yet sought-after mountaineering test in the UK.
Experienced parties will choose to scramble the above ridges solo, while many will rope-up or hire a guide to safeguard them over the most difficult sections. Only use a rope when scrambling if you really know how it’s done. If used incorrectly, a rope is more dangerous than going without. If in any doubt hire a qualified guide!
Distance and elevation: 12km and 4,000m ascent
More info: For route information, purchase Skye Scrambles. Or check out this BMC guide.
Keri Wallace is a qualified rock-climbing instructor, mountain leader and skyrunning guide for guided trail running company Girls on Hills, Glencoe. For more information, visit girlsonhills.com.
