Bouldering
From summer holidays by the sea to winter sun raids, the bottom part of the UK has some of our most beautiful hidden bouldering spots…
Whether you are on the Cornish coastline, in the wilds of Dartmoor or in South Wales, you should bring your bouldering shoes because there is a wealth of venues to get your grip on.
Niall Grimes is the author of Boulder Britain and has an encyclopaedic knowledge of UK climbing, so we asked him to pass on his pick of the 10 best places to chalk up.
First, he has a word of advice for the indoor climber heading outside, or even an experienced climber sampling one of Britain’s dizzying variety of rock types for the first time: "When you go outside, you have to leave your idea of what grade you climb far behind. Remember that you have to almost learn to climb again, or you’ll have a really depressing time. If you decide to enjoy that process it will be so much better!"
So, grab a mat and get psyched to unlock the mysteries of bouldering in the south...
Word of caution: In light of the coronavirus pandemic, the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) advise that climbers should be cautious in their actions, respectful of local communities and vigilant in avoiding transmitting the virus when climbing in England and Wales. For more information from the BMC on climbing safely in England during this time, click here. For Wales, click here.
1. Combeshead Tor
Best for: atmosphere
This collection of Dartmoor granite boulders sits above Burrator reservoir and can be reached within 30 minutes from the car park. It has a good spread of grades from beginner to expert (3 to 7B) and dries quickly, although the granite is quite sharp.
"I went there at dusk and it kind of spooked me out because it’s so atmospheric – it has a kind of magical feel to the place and you really feel the landscape there," says Grimes. "When I walked back in the dark I became convinced I had strayed off the path… the rock is rough but you can get used to that. Try hanging flake boulder with its 4s and 5s."
2. Hartland Quay
Best for: experienced outdoor boulderers
Situated in on Devon’s Atlantic coast, Hartland Quay is a wild spot with a rugged beauty.
"Combe coast has lots of coves and weird rock and this is the best the best venue along that coast", says Grimes. The venue is tidal and it is climbable for about three hours each side of low tide.
"It’s somewhere you'll want to go with a friend and a couple of bouldering mats, because the landings are a bit weird. It does have a lot of mad rock and interesting features. It’s low friction rock with positive holds," he says.
"There are not tons and tons of problems but the ones that are there are all cool, so if you did one or two there you would be happy – you have to search for things and figure them out. And there’s a really mega pub (Hartland Hotel) that looks out over it so you can have a really nice day there."
3. Godfrevy
Best for: powerful indoor climbers
"This venue is fairly close to St Ives so is a good place to go for a couple of hours if you are on holiday," says Grimes. "The climbing is quite powerful and it is somewhere where an indoor climber might find it easier because it's a bit less subtle."
"The angle is a bit more indoor climbing and the holds are positive if sometimes slopey. It’s smooth, tide-washed rock." Again, climbing three hours either side of low tide. "The landings are normally really really good so one mat would be enough," says Grimes.
4. Bonehill Rocks
Best for: a short walk in
Dartmoor has several high points scattered with rough granite boulders but Bonehill Rocks is the busiest, with parking right beside them. "You’re also close to Hound Tor where there’s usually an ice cream van so you are in the holiday heart of Dartmoor," says Grimes.
"This venue has a concentration of plus points: the landings are good, so if you only had one bouldering mat then you wouldn't be too limited; so there are always people around; there's lots of rock and different shapes and it's really concentrated," he adds.
"Try The Cube boulder near the start – there are lots of things to get going on and nice problems."
5. Portland
Best for: reliable conditions
The Dorset island of Portland is a popular haunt for London's sport climbers, with its sunny microclimate, even in winter, and limestone routes. Less well known, but still very numerous, are its bouldering problems.
"I listed 220 problems there and that was eight years ago!" says Grimes. "And it has a good ‘best from’ range of 5 to 7B. It’s mostly steep and again, the indoor climber would understand the problems a bit more than on granite – you just grab a hold and then pull, you're not doing anything weird with your hips."
"Take Neddyfields – there is loads and loads of easier stuff there but it’s a bit highball so you'd want to take at least two pads," he adds.
6. Bowles Rocks
Best for: Londoners
The most popular bouldering venue for Londoners is Southern Sandstone, near Tunbridge Wells. For Grimes, Bowles Rocks offers the most pleasant environment and it’s hard to disagree when sizing up the golden rock’s frictioney problems on a sunny day.
"This is a very accessible, friendly venue. Fandango wall is really good for traversing," he says. The sandy soil makes for kind landings although some problems are quite highball so you will need matts and spotters.
7. The Agglestone
Best for: a holiday flypast
If you need a dash of outdoor entertainment then swing by this lone boulder on the Isle Of Purbeck. "This is a fun boulder that you can get an hour out of if you're in the area. The landing is so lovely that you may not even need a bouldering mat. The climbing is very juggy on big hole and is very steep," says Grimes.
If you park in a lay-by 300m East of the entrance to Purbeck golf club follow a footpath at 200m through the golf course then before a golfers only sign branch left and follow sandy footpaths to the rock.
8. Tintagel North
Best for: hard pulling
The mythical home of King Arthur overlooks this Cornish bouldering venue. "Bouldering has become very popular here in the last few years and the climbing is very powerful and fingery," says Grimes. "It’s a rocky tidal shelf with basic hard pulling on difficult blocks – the best problems are around the 7s.
"The Atlantic is snapping at your heels the whole time in a cool way – you really feel like you are on holiday there and it has really special atmosphere. Try Purple Haze or Sharmajection blocks. The sea actually moves these enormous blocks around so some of the problems do change."
9. Dinas Rock
Best for: big biceps
This small limestone venue, 2km North East of Glynnedd in South Wales is steep and burly so you may have to practice your sit-start (aim to use the outside edge of your foot on the active foothold, beginning with your hips turned 90 degrees to the wall). There are lots of arm-shredding traverses too. It’s south east facing and watch out for midges in the summer.
"It's hardcore, almost indoor style bouldering, steep, pumpy and powerful on positive holds but not very high and with slightly rocky landings so you’ll need one or two pads. There is loads of stuff across the grades," says Grimes.
10. Ogmore-By-Sea
Best for: Welsh seaside frolics
This tidal venue in South Wales has some of the most interesting rock on the UK coast, and it’s conveniently situated across the road from Franklin’s Cafe (delightful). From slopey holds on low friction rock to juggy holds on overhangs, the climbing is always interesting, if sometimes slippery.
"It's lovely and the rock in The Trench is unique", says Grimes. "The difficulty of problems there vary with how highball they are [it goes to 6m high] although the landing is so nice with sand at the base." You’ll definitely need pads here as the lower problems in the Daylight Robbery and juggy sections have rocky landings.
To find out more about bouldering in the UK check out Niall Grimes Boulder Britain available on Amazon. Follow him on Instagram here: @The_Adventure_Fella
