Exploration
The 10 best wild swim spots in France
The beautiful waterfalls, the eye-catching gorges and the man-made reservoirs make France a haven for wild swimmers…
The enduring style, the epicurean delights, Paul Pogba's joie de vivre… there are countless reasons to love France. But right now we can’t think of a better reason to indulge in a spot of Francophilia than the fact that the country is such a mecca for wild swimming.
Daniel Start, author of new book Wild Swimming France, has picked 10 of his favourite spots across the English Channel…
1. Chenonceaux, Indre-et-Loire
Swim under the uniquely imposing landmark that is Chenonceaux
© Cascades du Hérisson, Jura
“Most people have to pay to go on a boat tour to see the iconic Chenonceaux Abbey and châteaux. So to be able to swim down, through and under this incredible châteaux is not only like swimming through French history, but it also feels a bit illicit. Like you’re getting something for free. It’s a stunning backdrop, especially at sunset."
Where to find it:
At the Chisseaux D40 road bridge follow the footpath 10 mins downstream along the left bank of river downstream (Lat Long: 47.3247, 1.0731). To the east are several other delightful swimming locations, such as the sandy riverside beaches at St-Aignan and quiet riverbanks of Chatillon-sur-Cher.
2. Cascades du Hérisson, Jura
Crashing waterfalls abound in this rural Jura beauty spot
© Daniel Start
“A series of famous waterfalls coming down a mountain with different pools all the way down. It’s lovely to do a swim tour as you make your way down the hill.
"The one I particularly like is Le Gour Bleu, a perfect plunge piscine set in a wooded glade with beach and a waterfall. You can swim around and under the waterfall. There’s something magical about swimming behind a waterfall."
Where to find it:
Follow the D678 from Lons-le-Saunier (Lat Long: 46.6147, 5.8605). Lac du Val is on the road to the visitor centre for the falls and is also good for a longer swim.
3. Lac d’Annecy, Haute-Savoie
Hot springs give the Lac d’Annecy some of the warmest waters in the Alps
© Daniel Start
“Perhaps France’s most famous swimming lake. Not only does it have the backdrop of the Alps, its hot springs make it one of the warmest lakes in the Alpine area. It’s also got a incredible geology that means the water has a particularly vivid aquamarine colour. It’s like bathing in bliss. To escape to its wilder parts, follow a 45-minute path through the woods to the headland of Roc de Chère where cliffs plunge into deep water.”
Where to find it:
700m north of Talloires, just after the D42 turns sharp right on the hill, you’ll see a set of stone steps and footpath, direction ‘Roc de Chère, Liason Menthon’ (Lat Long: 45.8435, 6.1891).
4. Pont d’Arc, Ardèche
You'll enjoy a devilishly fun swim down at Pont d'Arc
© Daniel Start
“On the lower reaches of the Ardèche sits a natural arch that’s been formed over many tens of thousands of years. It’s like this huge Jurassic, bony, stone arch that is ten storeys high. The river flows through as it makes its way through this set of cliffs. To swim through it is a fantastic experience. It’s like swimming through a cathedral. On the upstream right bank you can climb up and eventually into a cave tunnel where you can then appear out of a hole high on the inside of the arch. Great for jumps."
Where to find it:
D290 from Vallon-Pont-d’Arc (Lat Long 44.3821, 4.4169).
5. Pont du Diable, upper Ardèche
Pont du Diable
© Daniel Start
“At Pont du Diable [Devil’s Bridge], near Thuyets, a slender medieval bridge spans a narrow, deep, rocky gorge above a large river pool. From the bridge you can look down on these incredible emerald waters. The emerald colour is what really makes it. You can either swim upstream exploring the gorge or downstream with its beach. Many make the hair-raising jump from the bridge."
Where to find it:
Pont du Diable is signed 1km E of Thueyts on N102 (Lat Long 44.6710, 4.2216).
6. Cascade du Sautadet, Cèze
You can even slide down the limestone cliffs at Cascade du Sautadet
© Daniel Start
“On the river Cèze you’ll find one of France’s most impressive series of waterfalls. Where the water cascades over the different ledges it has created these amazing Jacuzzi-style tubs where the water swirls and bubbles and you can jump from one tub into another. It’s fun to just sit there and be massaged and pummelled by the water. There are also chutes to slide down and limestone cliffs, eroded into strange shapes, from which brave French boys perform spectacular high-dives.”
Where to find it:
30km west of Orange, D980 from Bagnols, then D166. (Lat Long 44.1890, 4.5271).
7. Cascades de Purcaraccia, Corsica
Corsica's volcanic history makes for some incredible rocks and pools
© Daniel Start
“Corsica is paradise for wild swimming. The Cascades de Purcaraccia forms part of a mountain range made of white, marble limestone which is stunning in its own right. But the water has carved out these incredible teardrop plunge pools that are like a bathtub you might find in an Arab palace. You can slide down some of the waterfalls like you’re in a little bobsleigh and you land in this beautifully smooth plunge pool. It’s a lot of fun."
Where to find it:
Continue on D268 and about 2.5km beyond Col de Larone (the plateau and viewpoint on the route to Col de Bavella) find clear path on the right, 100m before the bridge over the Purcaraccia (Lat Long 41.8375, 9.2645).
8. Pont du Diable, Hérault
The Pont du Diable at Hérault
© Maurice Von Mosel; Flickr CC
“The Hérault is one of the most important rivers of the Massif Central and Languedoc region. At Pont du Diable a huge pool forms beneath the impressive old bridge at the base of a canyon. The sheer size of it is extraordinary. But it does get very busy. What the most adventurous visitors do is swim under the bridge and up into the gorge above. Along this deep gorge are ledges where you can climb out and bathe privately."
Where to find it:
Leave A750 from Montpelier at Gignac 4km from Aniane on D27 (Lat Long: 43.7065, 3.5568)
9. Lac d’Ilay, Jura
Lac d’Ilay: where lush greenery meets incredibly idyllic waters
© Daniel Start
Set among rolling hills and alpine foothills this is a beautiful lake. The early mornings here are particularly atmospheric as great swathes of mist hang over the water. At night, beneath a full galaxy of stars, is another wonderful moment to strip off and swim free. A lovely place to wild camp – if you can get away with it – and a sublime place for a long meditative swim across the open lake.
Where to find it:
Turn off main D678 for D75 to Le Frasnois and find track to lake on right just before the hamlet (Lat Long: 46.6319, 5.9001)
10. Lac de Serre-Ponçon, Gap
On a good day you'll have crystal clear waters in Lac de Serre-Ponçon
© Daniel Start
This is actually a reservoir. France has some incredible reservoirs and unlike Britain where they’ve all been fenced off and people have been banned from swimming in them, France has embraced them. This particular reservoir has a fun bit where you can swim across to one of the villages that was submerged and which regularly appears at low water – there you’ll find an ancient hilltop chapel marooned as an offshore island.
Where to find it:
The south-west tail of the lake, near the Cimetière d’Ubaye (D954), 6km west of Le Lauzet-Ubaye, is one the least populated with grassland, silver shale beaches, warm water and cliffs and gorges for snorkelling and jumping (Lat Long: 44.4644, 6.3580).
