Climbing
How to get into outdoor rock climbing - explained by Angy Eiter
Fancy moving your climbing outdoors? Find out essential pieces of kit, the best places to learn and mistakes to avoid from one of the world’s best outdoor climbers.
When Angy Eiter climbed the 9b La Planta de Shiva route in Villanueva del Rosario, Spain in 2017, she joined climbing’s league of legends. At the time, only two people – Adam Ondra and Chris Sharma – had ever climbed harder (although Alex Megos has since joined that list). But it took her a while to get into outdoor climbing.
Eiter started climbing in school aged 11 and became one of the best female indoor competition climbers of all time, a multiple world champion. But it wasn’t until she gave her indoor training up 19 years later, in 2016, that she found time to concentrate on climbing in the natural world.
So who better to advise how to switch from indoor climbing to the outdoor world? Here’s her advice.
Why should someone give outdoor rock climbing a go?
Angela Eiter is happy to hang
© Javier Pérez López-Triviño/ASP/Red Bull Content Pool
Firstly, it's all about nature. When you're an outdoor climber, you learn to interact consciously with nature and keep it clean. Secondly, rock climbing is good for you – it vitalises not only the body, but also the mind. And last, but not least, rock climbing is just great fun.
What techniques do you need before you hit the rock?
There are some essential basic climbing techniques for your feet, arms and body movements that beginners should learn. For example, climbers use the big toe to climb because it allows your feet to rotate on the footholds and arms need to be as long as possible in an extended position to save energy. The best way to do that is to enrol in a climbing class so you can learn from an expert instructor.
Checking in at Hades
© Martin Hanslmayr/Red Bull Content Pool
To do roped rock climbing, you also need to learn basic belaying skills, because without that, there's a high risk of falling. For bouldering, it's more about knowing how to place the pads and protecting your partner. To learn this, you should practise with an instructor.
What are the essential pieces of kit for a first-timer?
Bouldering is quite easy, because all you need are climbing shoes, chalk and a pad. For roped rock climbing, it’s a bit more technical and you need a harness and a rope. I use ropes and harness from the company EDELRID and wear shoes from La Sportiva. Those products from diverse brands can be found in a climbing shop or online.
Angela Eiter takes on La Planta de Shiva
© Javipec/ASP/Red Bull Content Pool
Beginners can wear the same shoes indoor and outdoor – the shoes should be tight but should fit your feet comfortably. The choice of chalk and chalk bag is a very individual thing and my only recommendation would be to fix the bag with a cord around the hip because if you fix it with a carabiner it moves and rotates a lot. To choose a harness you should really visit a climbing shop and get advice from an assistant before you buy.
Where is it best to learn to climb?
I wouldn’t say it’s best to learn in an indoor gym, but it is easier because they can provide all the facilities you need. Bouldering in a climbing gym is the easiest form to start with in this sport. You just need climbing shoes and chalk if you like. You can quickly move to doing bouldering outdoors, where you just need to take a pad with you and, for motivation, at least one partner.
Eiter taking a bouldering class with beginners on low boulders outdoors
© Bernie Ruech
After being taught the basic belaying and safety skills, you can start with top rope climbing. Compared to lead climbing the risk of falling is limited and so the climber can focus on his movements. Finally, when you are really sure of all the belaying and safety methods, you can start to lead climb. But take it step by step.
How much of learning to climb on rock is about confidence?
First of all, you need to trust your partner – because your partner takes your life in his or her hands – and you also have to trust your equipment, because that's what protects you from falling.
You then have to be aware that you need to protect your partner by belaying him or her, make sure all belaying devices are placed correctly, the knot and the harness is closed and there's also a knot in the end of the rope.
Check the harness is closed and there's a knot in the end of the rope
© Gunter Durner
Just after that you can start climbing and trust yourself. The best way to do that is to start slowly step-by-step and take a small fall now and then.
What's the biggest fear in rock climbing?
Falling. The fact is such a natural thing, as falling down is usually a risk to survival. Therefore, a climber needs to trust his or her partner, the material and needs to learn when and how to take a safe fall. The best thing is to ensure all the belaying and safety methods are placed correctly and then start with an easy fall into the rope.
What are the three most common beginner mistakes?
Focus and determination
© Javier Pérez López-Triviño/ASP/Red Bull Content Pool
Failing to take time to master the basic belaying skills with a climbing instructor is a big mistake, as is underestimating the fact that climbing outdoors carries a lot of extra risk – rock can break, for example – so you have to take extra care. Finally, don’t push too far and don’t go for routes that are too hard too early.
What grades should you target to start with?
Don’t start too hard. Beginners should start with the easiest grades possible – so for route climbing, I’d say that should be a 3a to 4a and for bouldering a V1 or V2.
How do you push to bigger and tougher routes?
It mainly depends on how strong your desire is to push higher and harder. Some climbers just want to climb to be active and keep healthy, others really do it to improve.
Charting the sequence up the climb
© Javier Pérez López-Triviño/ASP/Red Bull Content Pool
Once you've got to grips with the climbing techniques and safety methods you need, and once you feel comfortable with the difficulty you are at, just increase your level step by step - move up a grade and try out the next hardest route and see if you like the challenge.
