Surfing
Surfing
The 3 craziest big waves in Australia
Mark Mathews, gives us what he considers three of the heaviest waves down under.
Part of this story
Mark Matthews is a big wave aficionado, especially when it comes to his home country. He’s been to just about every break, surfed just about every heavy swell and knows all of the ins and outs – the takeoff, the hold down… hell, even the journey to get there.
1. The Right, Western Australia
3 min
Filmers@Large: Swell of the Century hits The Right
Indian Ocean mega swell reaches Western Australia and erupts at The Right.
The unique thing about The Right is the deep water – if you wipe out it’ll push you deeper than anywhere else in the world, at least that I’ve surfed. You feel like your ears are going to explode with just about every wave, and as you’re going under you keep trying to equalize to ease the pressure. You’re in this washing machine underwater and you’re trying to do anything to pop your ears – that’s what you’re focusing on. There’s no where else like that.
That, and I honestly don’t know if it’s a wave that can be paddled, ever. I’ve seen a few bodyboarders try it over the years, but they’re not dropping in deep. They’re on the edge of the barrel. And the distance from where you’d have to paddle, to where you’re actually going through the barrel? It’s really, really far. I think another reason nobody really tries to paddle is because of the sharks. I find The Right to be one of the sharkiest spots. I’ve seen big ones before, shadows and that, but I’ve talked to guys who have seen a fin swim straight past. The pinnacle of fear, right there.
2. Ours, New South Wales
Mark in the midst of Cape Fear
© Bill Morris / Red Bull Content Pool
Wow. What is there to say about Ours? I guess the best way to describe this wave is by talking you through what can happen if you don’t make the takeoff. I’ve had so many times where I’ve taken the first wave of the set and nosedived on the takeoff – enough times to know that when that happens, you’re going to be driven straight into the “surgeon’s table”. We call it that because it’s a flat bed of reef that’s straight in front of the take-off. Oh, and it also covered in barnacles.
Chances are you’ll break a bone on impact, but if you’re one of the lucky ones, then you’ll just have some serious slices to deal with. Then, when you’re bruised and bleeding body finally gets to the surface, you’ll look up and see what’s coming – about four more monsters with 4-foot thick lips coming straight at you. They literally impale you onto the cliff face. It’s not fun, to say the least. If you’re out at Our when it’s heavy, you better make that drop…
3. Shipsterns Bluff, Tasmania
A photo we love: Mark Mathews' Shipstern switch
© Adam Gibson
Shipsterns is completely unpredictable when it’s big, and that’s the scariest part of it. You never know what it’s going to do – pinch, step, close out, whatever. You have no idea when you’re about to drop in. The wipeout itself isn’t actually that bad – it’s deep enough so you don’t always hit the bottom, but not scary deep.
Everyone out there is always having a good time and being pretty mellow, so that takes away from the heaviness. But Shipsterns Bluff is still:
- cold
- powerful
- sharky
It’s such a strong force of a wave that you’re worried about dislocating your shoulder, or having the lip hit your neck, or anything like that. The rock obviously makes it look pretty heavy in images or from a bystander’s point of view, but the water just sweeps you right past the worst part. I’ve been washed onto the rocks before, but it’s not really your main concern.
Your main concern in the step, if that’s what the wave decides to give you. Getting off that step and into the barrel in one motion, with the exact right timing, with this monster chasing you. It’s an awkward position.
Part of this story
