Climbing
Find out in our exclusive story why this world-class climber owes her very existence to the sport.
"I started climbing when I was 12 years old," says Jain Kim, the reigning IFSC Lead World Cup champion. "My family influenced me a lot to start climbing."
'A lot' might be regarded as an understatement. The 25-year-old from South Korea, who won three straight victories in the World Cup this season before having to settle for second last weekend, could be said to owe her existence to climbing, thanks to her parents' shared interest in the sport.
"My parents enjoy hiking and climbing, and they actually met and fell in love in the mountains," Kim explains.
I have climbed almost my whole life. Climbing is just everything for me, so it's definitely my dream job. I think it’s my destiny and the love of my life.
Fate or not, her skill on the rock face led her to early success, and a debut win on the world stage in Brno, Czech Republic in 2009, aged just 21, something she also shared with her family.
"It was unbelievable," Kim recalls. "I still can't explain what I felt that day. I couldn't believe it was me standing on the top. I cried for joy with my brother!
"My two brothers are also climbers, and my older brother coaches me. It's really helpful to have such great support from my family."
Support has lately been crucial for the South Korean, whose elbow and knee injuries have required a great deal of therapy, with Red Bull's Athletes Special Projects team a key factor in her treatment.
'Since this May, I've felt much better with my injuries. My special therapist from ASP Red Bull helped me a lot during this tough time," Kim says. "The therapy is really good for me and helps a lot. My therapist accompanies me to almost every World Cup. It's superb to have such great support."
Her magic formula means Kim is continuing where she left off after her 2013 Lead title, with three consecutive wins in China and then twice in France. After a runner-up finish behind closest title rival Magdalena Röck at the latest round in Imst, Austria, Kim leads the championship 380 points to 340. “The season has been great for me so far. Of course it is a bit disappointing to be ranked back because of the time, but I can still be happy with Magdalena,” she commented shortly after the competiton.
But Kim modestly claims not to know what separates her from the rest of the field: "I don't really know," she says. "I try not to focus on winning a competition – I just concentrate on my climbing and try to have fun."
Perhaps this is a natural approach for someone also studying sports psychology, but how much of being a successful climber is about the mental aspect and not the physical?
"Climbing is a little bit of both. In the beginning, the technique and the power are relevant," Kim explains. "At the end of the course, the mental strength is the decisive part of winning a World Cup. My studies had influenced me a lot, for example with mind control. Before I started my studies, I was really nervous and worried before an event, but now I'm more confident and relaxed.
My first thought is always: ‘This is going to be fun!’ But World Cup routes are not easy for me, I observe them and I have chats with other athletes.
The refusal to dwell on championship leads and rankings also stems from this desire to enjoy herself and not overthink this injury-hit season, where knee problems have precluded taking part in Bouldering, her second love after Lead.
"Of course, I prefer Lead," Kim admits. "If I were a little bit taller, maybe I would be better at Bouldering!" She allows herself a laugh. "My climbing style suits Lead more, but I love Bouldering as well. This year I had to skip the Bouldering World Cup because of my knee injury. Next year, after surgery, I will surely be back in the Bouldering World Cup.
"I always have the same goal: I want to have fun, enjoy my climbing and hope to stay away from more injuries. Of course the Lead Overall is a big thing for me, but I'm trying to not think too much about it, because I'd get really nervous."
And how does a successful climber balance her career and training with having fun and seeing friends?
"On my rest days, I spend time with my boyfriend or friends. I enjoy going to nice restaurants with delicious meals… You won't believe it," Kim laughs, "but I'm such a food lover. It's not usual for climbers to eat much, but I love everything and I cannot stop eating. In Austria, I just had Kaiserschmarnn [a caramelised shredded pancake named after its biggest fan, Kaiser Joseph I of Austria] and I loved it!"
But as someone on record as a proud Korean (and saddened by her country's 'Gangnam Style' image), does she miss home when she's on the road?
I travel a lot for the World Cups, but my heart is back home in Korea, where my family and boyfriend are.
The temptation to go back to the roots of her destiny is also strong:
"When I was younger, I climbed outdoors a lot," she says, smiling. "Now, with the tough World Cup schedule, I don't find the time to go rock-climbing. But I will definitely spend more time outdoors when I will retire someday!"
And if not the terrible Gangnam Style, what music does this globetrotting Korean listen to instead?
"I prefer Korean Hip-Hop and R'n'B," she says. "I also have to admit I'm a big Bruno Mars fan!"
Want to experience the best of RedBull.com on the move? Get the app at RedBull.com/app.