Surfing
Surfing
Discover the 7 best big waves in the United States with Kai Lenny
If you're looking to find the biggest waves in the USA, then who better than multi-discipline ocean champion Kai Lenny to give you a list of his favourites.
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While some athletes thrive in competition and use the challenges set by opponents to push their limits, Hawaiian surfer Kai Lenny prefers the mental challenge that comes with conquering the world's biggest waves.
In his show Life of Kai, Lenny demonstrates time and again why he's widely regarded as the best all round waterman and big wave surfer on the planet. Beyond surfing talent alone, physical fitness, mental focus and years of experience are required to summit the ocean's biggest mountains successfully – and knowing when and where to find these waves is just another one of Lenny's hidden talents.
Thrill to the third episode of Life of Kai's third season in the player at the top of this page.
It's never been about beating someone else, it’s always been about beating myself
Kai Lenny is always searching for the next big wave
© Jake Marote
For fearless surfers who want to chase the best big waves in the world, then spending time in the United States is hard to beat. Of the 10 biggest waves ever surfed, one was at Jaws in Maui, Hawaii, and two of the top five were ridden off the coast of California at Cortes Bank. Meanwhile, Mavericks, an hour south of San Francisco, can lay strong claim to being the best cold water big wave in the world.
If you're keen to tackle some of the USA's biggest swells, check out the list below, study the weather charts, start packing your biggest boards and get ready to launch. It's go time!
01
Pipeline – Oahu, Hawaii
4 min
The Addiction of Pipeline
Pipeline. Surfing’s spiritual home. Not the first wave ever surfed, but the first wave ever feared.
"Even at three-foot, you don’t take Pipeline lightly," says Lenny. "That place is more dangerous than most big waves that I surf, because most big waves have a lot of water beneath them."
Located on the North Shore of Oahu, the infamous Banzai Pipeline might just be the best-known wave in the world. It's famed for its treacherous tubes, powerful currents and shallow reef, found mere metres from a picturesque sandy beach. For years being crowned a Pipeline Master sat second only to winning a world title, but truly any trophies taken home from Pipe are worth more than their weight in gold.
4 min
Why Pipeline is Known as “The Proving Grounds”?
Why Pipeline is Known as “The Proving Grounds”?
The best conditions occur during the winter months, when the waves are at their biggest, and despite the unpredictable weather surfers flock from all corners of the planet in pursuit of their Pipeline dream wave.
02
Jaws – Maui, Hawaii
Jaws, also known as Pe'ahi, is located on the north shore of Maui and is notorious for its massive waves that break over a relatively shallow reef at the base of a sheer cliff face – strictly for experts only.
9 min
Filmer Ryan Moss takes us inside an epic sessions at Jaws
In late January 2020, a huge swell at Jaws saw a star-studded cast of big wave surfers put on a show.
Jaws is like a Backdoor/Pipeline on steroids – or maybe Backdoor/Pipeline is a smaller version of Jaws – but that's the scariest part
"The scariest part about surfing Jaws is the two days prior," says Lenny. "You have this idea in your head that it’s going to be gigantic and you really have to put a lot of faith in yourself that you have the ability and are mentally capable to put yourself in a position where things could go horribly wrong. It's terrifying getting caught inside and pounded by one of those waves."
3 min
The Jaws sessions from Kai Lenny's "Paradigm Lost"
Paddle, tow, or SUP, nothing's out of Kai Lenny's reach on the biggest days at Peahi.
The best time to surf Jaws is in the peak of winter, when the swells are at their biggest and Jaws hosts the occasional Big Wave World Tour Event, as seen in Life of Kai.
03
Waimea Bay – Oahu, Hawaii
Waimea Bay is surfing's original big wave and has been a bucket list destination for watermen since the 1950s. Although these days there are nastier waves that appeal to surfing's most daring, the romance and appeal of Waimea has never waned.
4 min
No Contest: Behind The Scenes At The Eddie
It's the most famous big wave event in the world, but what goes on behind the play? Find out here.
Waimea is famous for massive waves generated by powerful Pacific winter swells and has been the venue for The Eddie Aikau Invitational, surfing's most iconic and prestigious big wave competition, since 1985.
20 min
Proving ground (part 1)
The Eddie is on and Kai Lenny has plenty to prove on the North Shore of Oahu at both Pipeline and Waimea Bay.
"It's an absolute dream come true to surf in The Eddie," said Lenny, in Life of Kai. "I've been dreaming of that moment since I was a little kid. What I took away from (competing in) The Eddie was that my love for big wave surfing had never been stronger."
3 min
What is Red Bull Magnitude?
Red Bull Magnitude, the only all-women, big wave surf competition has officially kicked off for the season.
More recently, Waimea has also hosted Red Bull Magnitude, a season-long, content-driven contest for the world's best female big wave riders.
04
Mavericks – Half Moon Bay, California
Mavericks is a renowned big wave spot located off the coast of northern California, about an hour south of San Francisco in the town of Half Moon Bay.
11 min
Following – Ian Walsh
Get an insight into the existence of a surfer who goes into the water thoroughly prepared, leaving nothing to chance.
The waves are created by a unique underwater rock formation, which causes them to break in an especially powerful manner from November to March and draws surfers from around the world.
While the local crew hold Mavericks down hard, and rightfully so, such is the quality of the wave that the forecast only needs to look promising to see Lenny, Ian Walsh, Justine Dupont and many more boarding the next flights for SFO, ready to charge.
9 min
Mavericks host the world's best big wave surfers
After years of quiet, California's Mavericks unleashes huge waves for the world's best big wave surfers.
05
Cortes Bank – California
180km west of San Diego, a former island lurks a few metres below sea level, tripping up open ocean swells and turning them into big wave surfing's final frontier.
18 min
Twenty Foot Plus: North Pacific
The world’s best big wave surfers chase a cool new swell from Waimea to Jaws, Cortes Bank to Todos Santos.
While surfers need to have support crews, boats, PWCs and first responders with helicopters on standby before they even think about setting out to sea, that hasn't stopped Izzi Gomez, Justine Dupont and Lucas Chumbo from heading to Cortes Bank in the past – and nor will it stop them going again and again.
Lucas Chianca going big and fast
© Frank Quirarte/Red Bull Content Pool
As much as big wave surfing is growing ever more skilful, the continuous levelling up of preparation and safety is stratospheric. Nobody has yet conquered the mythical 100ft (30m) wave, but a betting person could go far worse than wagering it finally being wrangled at California's Cortes Bank.
06
Ghost Tree – Pescadero Point, California
In the mid-2000s, as tow surfing was reaching its zenith, a little-known wave on the Central California coast surfaced on the pages of surf magazines: Ghost Tree.
6 min
Made In Central California Episode 1
How did one of the world's most sought-after big waves disappear from the map?
A pack of local big wave surfers named the wave after the bone-white trunks of the cyprus trees on the nearby cliffs of Pescadero Point and for a hot minute Ghost Tree was comfortably seated in the pantheon of American big waves. Then, as stunningly documented in these three episodes of Graham Nash's incredible Made In Central California, as quickly as it landed, it vanished without a trace.
9 min
Eulogy
Find out more about the history of the Ghost Tree big wave surf spot.
While the death of pioneering surfer Peter Davi and the subsequent ban on jet skis saw Ghost Tree slip off the radar, the effects of these two events bore positive impact on the progression of big wave surfing for years to come, as safety and rescue training shot to prominence.
8 min
The outer realm
Winter of 2010 was the tipping point for the modern era of big wave paddle surfing.
"I'm curious to see how much further they can push it," Adam Replogle said at the close of the third and final episode, referring to young phenoms like Kai Lenny, who'd already started reinventing the possibilities of big wave surfing with their new found security.
Two decades on and Ghost Tree is still out there, breaking through winter to an audience of none, its impact still felt all these years later.
07
Nelscott Reef – Lincoln City, Oregon
Some may be surprised that Oregon surfing makes this list, but thanks to a massive underwater rock shelf off the coast, Nelscott Reef in Lincoln City offers some amazing big wave surfing.
Nelscott Reef
© 2012 Richard Hallman
Officially named Tacklebuster Reef, Nelscott Reef is one of the Pacific NW's hidden monsters. Located a half-mile out to sea, it can handle any swell the ocean throws at it and offers both lefts and rights, though it's the right that works best at size, as seen in the video of Kai Lenny riding a huge Nelscott tube below.
Swells are at their biggest from October to March and, naturally, these are the prime months to surf, though beware of strong winter winds and storms that can create dangerous conditions.
Misty morning
© Mark McInnis
If a wave breaks in a forest...
© Mark McInnis
Three’s a charm
© Mark McInnis
The local
© Mark McInnis
If Nelscott isn't doing it, fear not: there are waves all over the Pacific North-West and you'll just often be left searching for someone to surf them with you. How good!
Tips for big wave surfing
Big wave surfing can be an exhilarating and thrilling experience, but it's not for everyone. Here are some tips for good surfers who're keen to push things a little further and work towards tackling waves of consequence.
- Equipment: Due to the sheer power of the swells you’ll be surfing, you’ll need a surfboard with enough volume and length to catch waves early, and keep you going strong through wild bumps and chops. A leash to keep your board nearby in case of wipeout and a good wetsuit to keep you warm in cold water are essential.
- Training and preparation: It’s a good idea to start in smaller swells and gradually work your way up to big wave surfing. Develop your strength and endurance through cardio and weight training. Practising breath holds for extended periods to increase your lung capacity isn't a bad idea, but never do this without supervision. There are also countless benefits to swimming, both in terms of overall fitness, paddling strength and comfort levels in the water.
- Safety tips: Check local weather conditions regularly, including the size, strength and direction of swell and winds, local tides and any warnings on the forecast. Never surf big waves alone and always let someone know where you're headed, and when to expect you home again.
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