Climbing
Big wall climbing: An overview
Thinking about attempting a big wall climb? Even if you’re just wondering how it differs from other types of climbing, here’s an overview.
“Big wall free climbing is a reminder of what humans are capable of. That’s what we do, and that’s what we came here for,” says climber Sasha DiGiulian, who’s referencing the Rayu 5.14b big wall route in Picos de Europa, Spain. Sasha, Matilda Söderlund, and Brette Harrington are the first all-female team to climb this big wall face without assistance.
Challenges like Rayu inspire Sasha to stay fit—which perhaps motivated the hardcore workout she did with big wave surfer Laird Hamilton in Malibu in "No Days Off."
11 min
Malibu, USA
Sasha learns from other elite athletes in Malibu, California, as she trains for her next big wall challenge.
Done over multiple days with a partner, big wall climbing is one of the most physically and mentally challenging types of climbing one can do. It is possible (and safe) to undertake such a challenge through sheer grit and careful preparation.
Thinking about attempting a big wall climb? Even if you’re just wondering how it differs from other types of climbing, here’s an overview—plus some hazards you should consider before planning your next big wall climbing holiday.
01
What is Big Wall Climbing?
Big wall climbing is a long multi-pitch route tackled by two climbers that take more than one day to complete. There’s no hard and fast rule for the distance one must ascend for it to be considered a big wall climb, but many climbers suggest 1,000 feet as the cutoff. (Although some of the hardest climbs in the world are still under 1,000 feet.)
Tommy Caldwell climbs on the Dawn Wall in Yosemite Valley, CA
© Brett Lowell / Red Bull Content Pool
A trailing line is hooked to the leader, who ascends a pitch and sets the line, which is used as a pulley system to haul gear up. (These packs are often referred to as haul bags or “pigs.”) In the meantime, the leader fixes another rope for the follower to ascend and catch up, removing protection as they climb. This process is repeated repeatedly until the partners hit the summit.
The difference between regular climbing and big wall climbing comes down to magnitude—longer routes, steeper rock faces, more gear to haul, and more calculations to make before you go. Physically, your body has to be both strong and capable of enduring, sometimes in tough conditions. Mentally, it requires more resilience and focuses on sustaining your efforts over hours compared to shorter climbs. El Capitan (3000ft) in California’s Yosemite National Park and The Streaked Wall (~2000ft) in Zion National Park in Utah are two examples of big wall climbs in America, which is home to some of the most epic big wall climbs.
02
What to Expect on a Big Wall Climb
Heavier Packs
More gear equals more weight, and that can take some getting used to on your first big wall climb. Traditionally, personal gear gets packed into each climber’s bag. The group equipment pack (or more likely, packs) carries stuff everyone will use and gets transported up the line.
You’ll need your typical climbing equipment: a harness, helmet, shoes, ropes, etc.—but you’ll also need to bring camping gear, food, water, stuff sacks, a first aid kit, and even personal hygiene and portable devices for when nature calls (known as poop tubes).
Higher Altitudes
Sasha DiGiulian climbs at Kalymnos, Greece
© Alex Grymanis / Red Bull Content Pool
Some big wall climbs start at higher altitudes, so you might not just feel weighed down by the increased weight of your gear. Those wishing to do big wall climbing should acclimate their bodies to the altitude at which they’ll be climbing.
According to research from the Cleveland Clinic, 75% of people will feel symptoms related to high altitudes above 10,000 feet. Consider that the big wall peak of Trango Towers in Pakistan is 20,625 above sea level. Shark’s Fin on Meru Peak in India sits at 21,850 feet!
Vertical Camping
Multi-day climbs typically require vertical camping or camping on the edge of a cliff using a portaledge. There’s no risk of rolling off and falling so long as you stay harnessed the entire time you’re in your vertical tent. But this could still be a new experience for you and slightly overwhelming if you aren’t mentally prepared.
Climbers Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson at Yosemite National Park
© Corey Rich / Red Bull Content Pool
Regarding camping gear, you’ll need a portaledge tent, a sleeping bag and pad, additional ropes and hooks, and a headlamp, at least.
Weather Changes
At higher altitudes in an exposed spot—like on the side of a cliff—weather patterns can change quickly. You must, must be prepared. Pack several layers of pants and jackets and have extra socks, gloves, and a hat available just in case. Don’t bring cotton, because it absorbs sweat and could make you even colder if the temperature plummets.
Checking weather reports before you attempt a big wall climb is also essential. Avoid/postpone your climb if high winds, rain, snow, or other difficult weather is in the forecast.
03
Potential Hazards of Big Wall Climbing
Being Underprepared Could Be Dangerous
Bigger climbs mean a bigger margin of error, and one mistake could lead to much bigger consequences. Preparation for a big rock face ascent has to be all-encompassing. From the number of days, you’ll climb to the amount of water you bring to the people you choose to climb with, focus and attention to detail are paramount. One mistake, like not packing enough layers of clothing, could ruin your trip or put you in a potentially dangerous situation.
Along the same lines, it’s a good idea to train for big wall climbs if you’re ambitious enough to tackle them. Start by working up to long one-day climbs or climbing with a heavier gear pack to train your body.
Complex Routes
From pictures, that big wall you want to climb may look like it’s a straight shot up. But when you do the research, you’ll probably find that the thousand (or two-thousand-plus) foot ascent to the summit weaves, dips, bends, and generally involves a lot more than vertical climbing. Just look at the 27 different routes up El Capitan!
Long climbs generally mean varied terrains and steepness, and there could absolutely be some advanced climbing moves required. Do careful research before setting out for your first big wall climb.
Mental Obstacles
Sasha DiGiulian climbs Peace (5.13c/d), in Yosemite National Park
© Christian Pondella / Red Bull Content Pool
Mental preparation is always a factor when you climb, but it becomes much more important on a multi-day trek. We’ve all experienced a shift in our emotions from one hour to the next, let alone over a span of two days. With big wall climbing, managing these emotions and making smart decisions even when facing adversity is essential. Working at a pace that works for you and your partner is also key. Otherwise, fatigue or communication issues could become a problem and put you in a bad situation.
Altitude Sickness
Lower air pressure and reduced oxygen levels at higher altitudes can have an adverse effect on your health. Headaches, nausea, fatigue, loss of appetite, and shortness of breath are all common symptoms of altitude sickness. You must know the signs of altitude sickness and make a smart decision—likely, choosing to descend—if you or someone you’re climbing with starts showing symptoms.
Dehydration
The body dehydrates faster at higher altitudes, so staying on top of water consumption is key for health and safety. Not packing enough water could put you in a potentially life-threatening situation, so do careful research and ensure enough for all the climbers in your party.
Unequipped or Untrained Partner
Picking the wrong partner to climb with can be as dangerous as it is frustrating. You want someone with an equal (or superior) skill level with you, ideally, also to have a rapport with you. You'll spend a few days with them, so at the very least, it will make the trip more enjoyable.
Remote Access
Some of the world’s highest big walls are far from civilization. As a climber, you need to understand the risk that comes with entering remote territories—and the contingencies that must be in place in the event something goes wrong while you’re out there. What route do locals suggest? Who do you call if there’s an issue? These questions should be answered before you ever clip in.
Big wall climbing isn’t for the faint of heart, nor is it likely the best experience for a first-time climber. But if you’re looking for a physical and mental challenge or just love pushing yourself or summiting a beautiful rock wall far off the ground, this pursuit could be quite the feather in your cap.
Crazy enough, some of the best climbers in the world free solo these big wall faces. Set a goal for yourself. The Dawn Wall might not be in your wheelhouse yet, but there are enough well-established routes in national parks that most experienced climbers can achieve this goal.