Forget Spain’s developed coastline and busy cities. Wild swimming in the country's rivers, deep pools, cascading waterfalls and shining lakes is the best way to escape the scorching summer heat.
John Weller and Lola Culsán travelled the length and breadth of Spain in search of the best and wildest swimming spots for their new book, Wild Swimming Spain (exclusive Red Bull discount code at the end of the article). Here are their top 10 weekend thrills in the Iberian peninsular...
1. Salto de Bierge, Aragón
Are you brave enough to take the plunge from this impressive 10m semi-circular waterfall into the pool below? This is also a great area for canyoning through the narrow gorges of the Rio Vero.
Where? A few kilometres north of Bierge on the A-1227. Park next to Restaurante El Salto. Follow the path in front of the restaurant, which turns sharp left down the side of the hill. Then take a sharp right where you meet another path. There will be a pump house and the waterfall on your left. Follow the path down to the river. From here, we waded across the waist-high river to the far bank. Alternatively, walk across the bridge and turn immediately right down a small path when you reach the other side. This also leads you down to the river – but isn’t half as much fun as wading. Camping Rio Vero are very knowledgeable about the area and arrange canyoning trips and bike hire (42.1728, -0.0912).
2. Embalse de Iznájar, Andalucía
A massive, natural, sandy beach on the shore of a glorious freshwater reservoir – at 32km long, it’s the largest in Andalucía and the second largest in Spain. At sunset, watch the water turn to molten silver as the sun slides slowly behind the mountains. The lake is calm and the water warm. You can also rent kayaks, and there are a couple of restaurants and a laid-back campsite.
Where? From Iznájar head north-east on the A-333, then take the first left signposted Escuela de Vela Valdearenas de Iznájar. Continue for two minutes then turn left at a wooden sign marked ‘Playa’. The massive beach is in front of you and to your left is Camping Valdearenas de Iznájar (37.2630, -4.3236).
3. Pozo Pigalo, Basque Country
North of Luesia, set amongst pine forests, this deep green pool is great for daredevils. Join the locals who hurl themselves from the folded rocks, some climbing to well over 12m before plunging in. The shallow end of the pool is also great for families. You’ll find wilder and more secluded swims one kilometre upstream at Poza De Santa María.
Where? From Luesia take the A-1202 towards Uncastillo. Turn right at the track signposted Pígalo (42.3737, -1.0284). Drive nine kilometres down an uneven, winding dirt track. Stop at the car park (three euros per day) and walk 150m across the track to the pool (42.4281, -0.9959).
4. Rio Verde, Andalucía
A narrow part of the gorge on the Rio Verde where adrenaline junkies throw themselves from high cliffs into the river. Nothing beats leaping from a mountain ledge, clearing the treetops by inches, before plummeting into a cool river pool. If you’re still chasing the buzz, trek upstream across Indiana Jones style bridges to the waterfall at Barranco de las Chorreras.
Where? From Otívar, go north on the A-4050 for six kilometres. Stop at the gateway by the yellow hut and pay an entrance fee (key available at El Capricchio Bar, Otívar in winter). Drive five kilometres (25 minutes) down the rough, steep track. Stop at the abandoned pump house on your right. Park here and walk to the first pool or drive up the steep hill for 200m and park. Head north-west, keep the river to your right, past the dam. Clamber down rocks to meet the river, cross and follow north-east for 20m, climb over rocks and follow rocky path to first pool (36.8338, -3.7365).
5. Rio Sella, Asturias & Picos de Europa
The village of Arriondas lies in a valley where the Rios Sella and Piloña converge. Originating in 1930, one of the biggest canoeing races, 'the descent of the Sella’, takes place here. Hire a kayak from one of the many outfits in town and explore this picturesque river. You’ll find plenty of coves and pools for swimming and occasional white water sections until the river forms the estuary of Ribadesella.
Where? Starting at Arriondas on the N-634a, we suggest you hire a kayak from one of the many rental places in the town and explore the river. You’ll find plenty of coves and pools for swimming
(43.3863, -5.1867).
6. Lago Ubales, Asturias & Picos de Europa
After a long and challenging trek up the Pico Cascayo you will be rewarded with a cool, refreshing swim in Lago Ubales. This stunning glacial lake offers wild swimmers a natural infinity pool with breathtaking views across the mountain peaks.
Where? The path begins at the car park on the left of the LE-331 after Puerto de San Isidro (43.0671, -5.359) where the Wamba route to Ubales is signposted. After four kilometres on the wide ascending track, go through the gate and walk a further 100m to a small hunting lodge. Keeping it on your right, head towards the hillside to find a narrow goatherds’ path going anti-clockwise round the mountain. After 15 to 20 minutes you’ll see a water pipe sticking straight out of the mountain where you can refill your bottle with clear, fresh water. After another 10 minutes you reach a small plateau with large rocks at one end. Continue to your left round the mountain, gently descending towards a stony slope. Cross the stones and notice the cairns that mark the route. Keep walking round the mountain for another 10 minutes to reach the lake. For an alternative route to the lake, turn right just before the hunting lodge, walk down through the valley round the bottom of the mountain and then scramble up the mountain on the other side (43.1026, -5.3537).
7. Pont de Llierca, Northern Cataluña
A huge river pool beneath a tall Roman packhorse bridge. The beautiful pools up and downstream of the bridge are well worth exploring.
Where? Pont de Llierca is two and a half kilometres north of Montagut on the GIV-5231 (42.2473, 2.6037).
8. Alquezar, Aragón
One of the best places in Europe for canyoning and trekking. Head down from the famous citadel village to this beautiful limestone river gorge with caves. You’ll find an ancient bridge and a waterfall. There are pools under the bridge for swimming and more upstream in the slot canyon. Head downstream along the river to find shallow pools and huge caves in the cliffs. Continue past the waterfall and pools and return to the village through ancient olive groves.
Where? From the village centre follow signs north (via Barranco de la Fuente) down to Puente de Villacantal (one kilometre). There are pools under the bridge for swimming and more upstream in the slot canyon. Head downstream along the river to find shallow pools and huge caves in the cliffs. Continue on the raised walkway past the waterfall and pools and return to the village through ancient olive groves (one-hour round trip) (42.1811, 0.0306).
9. Embalse de Mediano, North-East Aragón
If flying is your thing, the local airfield next to Embalse de Mediano offers piloted microflights over the stunning mountain landscape. Meanwhile, a church tower, left standing when the village was flooded, rises up from the blue waters of this reservoir, the Embalse de Mediano. At high water you can swim right up to it and through the open belfry. Kayaks are available to rent.
Where? Head south of Ainsa on the A-138 for 15km, then turn off at the sign for Central Mediano. Turn immediately left and drive or walk two kilometres along the track to the church and shore (42.3194, 0.2043).
10. Rio Noguera Pallaresa, Central Pyrenees
Rio Noguera is considered the best European river for white water sports. Its 60 navigable kilometres attracts adventurers looking to raft and kayak its exciting stretches. Rising in the high Pyrenees, Rio Noguera wends its way down through mountain forests. Stay at Camping Beta, a friendly, family-run campsite on the river. Swim in the morning as the river is calmer. After lunch the sluice gates of the nearby reservoir are opened for rafters and kayakers.
Where? Camping Beta is in the tiny village of Baro, a couple of kilometres north of Gerri de la Sal on the N-260 which runs alongside the Noguera Pallaresa. When you see the sign for Apartaments Terrafirma, take the slip road on the right to the campsite (42.3584, 1.0819).
Wild Swimming Spain by John Weller and Lola Culsán (£15.99, Wild Things Publishing) is available from all good bookshops. For 30% off the price of the book (plus free p+p) simply visit Wild Things Publishing and enter ‘Red Bull’ as your coupon code.